I’m not ordinarily big on bright gold and purple trousers but when in Coorg, do as the Coorgs do. Nithya, my friend whose wedding I’m in India to celebrate trades coffee beans in Australia. His was a traditionally arranged marriage, but the wedding is in true Coorg style and I’m determined to look the part.


Ghotul Akbar Nooruddin Abu al-Hasan al-Shadhili is the man who first bought coffee to the western world, but the guy who picks usp from the airport gives his name as ‘Jack’ then takes us to the hotel without speaking.


The landscape is flat, the road is flat, the flatness stretches out forever and beyond. The only change in the landscape was colour, with brown moving to a light ochre, then opening up to a palette of red and green. The verdant hills are held up by the rich, red topsoil, all set off by

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1560 metres up, overlooking the pristine cooling rainforest punctuated by giant up-flung trees sits Finca Santa Teresa, the farm I’ve dreamed of having since I got into the coffee game. It’s great to be handed a bag of green beans, to roast them, grind them and so on. But being able to grow the fruit

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